
Food and Hosting
How to cook Mexican like a Michelin chef with Santiago Lastra
Spend five minutes with chef Santiago Lastra, the force behind London’s KOL, where Mexican cooking is filtered through a fiercely personal, produce-led lens. We catch him mid-service, deep in rhubarb season, talking flavour as the ultimate non-negotiable and food as an act of celebration. From spicy, fresh plates designed to make you order another round, to the quiet power of teamwork in the kitchen, Santiago reflects on patience, joy, and why the best meals are colourful, generous, and made to be shared.

Image: Anton Rodriguez

Image: Anton Rodriguez
Interview with Santiago
Where are we catching you today - and what’s the last thing you ate that made you happy?
I’m here at the restaurant KOL. The last thing that made me happy is rhubarb. It is just in season, so we’re making a ceviche with rhubarb and scallops. We also do a dessert with rhubarb. I love this time of year with it being in season, and it is especially good from Yorkshire. Rhubarb in any form makes me happy, really
KOL has such a clear point of view. What are the non-negotiables in your cooking - the things you refuse to compromise on?
Non-negotiables are flavour. You never compromise on flavour. I think the most important thing for us when we create a dish is that it needs to taste Mexican. The dish needs to be spicy, fresh, colourful, and appealing. Most importantly, it needs to give you this will to order another one. That’s the question: will you order another one & will you want more? That is very important beyond any presentation or conceptual idea.
You often talk about food as a celebration. When you say “carnival,” what does that mean to you - the colours, sounds, flavours that live in your memory?
Yes, definitely. I think food is a celebration - especially fine dining, which is designed for it.. We’re lucky enough to have people come from all around the world celebrating birthdays, meetings, and sometimes simply life itself. Celebration isn’t limited to fine dining. Even cooking something special for your family on a regular Tuesday can turn an ordinary moment into something meaningful. It’s about care, love, and going the extra mile. Celebration means care and love, but also interaction: using your hands, getting involved, and sharing with others. That shared moment is what is important. Food is made to make people happy and excited, and to bring people together.
If you had to distill Mexican food that feels restaurant-level into three principles, what would they be?
Spicy, fresh, and incredibly delicious. Friendly, colourful, and complex. Fun, passionate, and beautiful.
What’s the most misunderstood ingredient or technique in Mexican cooking in the UK - the one you’re always gently trying to re-educate people about?
I think it’s probably the basic tortillas. That’s one of the most difficult things about making Mexican food outside of Mexico. It is generally quite hard to find good quality corn masa, and to make it at home is also quite complicated. It is difficult, but I encourage people to buy masa harina if they’re making tortillas at home. I should also mention that I’ve been working for a long time on a new technique to make tortillas without corn masa, using potato mash instead. That will be in my new book, coming out in April - so I’ll be able to tell you more about it then.
How has KOL changed you as a chef - and what has it taught you that you didn’t expect?
KOL has changed me a lot, both as a chef and as a person. There are so many things I’ve learnt about myself, about creativity, and especially about teamwork. I’ve learnt that good things come with time, to be patient, and also trust other people and their ability. Running a restaurant has taught me that while great ingredients matter, the best people are the most important ingredient for success. I’m fortunate to work with an amazing team and continue learning from them every day. For me, learning never stops - it’s the most important part of the journey. Opening a restaurant isn’t the finish line; it’s just the beginning. It’s a journey with your team, one of continual growth and trying to become the best version of yourself.
If someone wants to make Mexican food feel restaurant-level at home, what are the top three things you’d tell them to focus on and what’s the quickest win?
Don’t be afraid to make it spicy - especially if you’re making a spicy sauce. Another quick win is freshness. Fresh is best, so get all of the ingredients fresh. Finally, get a few really good-quality proteins. If you’re cooking lamb, go to the butcher and ask for great lamb. If you’re using fish, ask for the freshest fish you can find. Avoid canned or frozen products. A spicy sauce, very fresh ingredients, and a great main protein go a long way. Then put some music on, smile, and have fun. For the tortillas, I suggest using flour tortillas. If you want to use corn tortillas, instead of buying them ready-made, buy masa harina. You can find it in health food shops, Whole Foods, or online. Just add water and make them fresh. Otherwise, stick with flour tortillas - and enjoy.


Quickfire
Your desert-island ingredient?
That’s so hard - but imagining that I could hunt and forage on a desert island and not starve, I’d say chillies. Because there is no life without spice.
The flavour combination you’ll defend forever?
Sour-spicy-sweet-umami - basically everything that is in a taco.
Heat level: subtle build or immediate hit?
Subtle at first, then it builds up and hits you - but without suffocating you. It’s just nice and warm, keeping you awake.
One British ingredient that surprised you in your cooking?
There are many, but I will say my absolute favourite this season is Yorkshire rhubarb, and obviously the love of my life is langoustines.
Your ideal carnival dish, eaten standing up?
Elotes. Corn on the cob served on a stick, boiled and finished with lime juice, chilli powder, mayonnaise, and fresh cheese. It’s unbelievable. You can also grill it after boiling, which makes it even better.
The smell that instantly takes you back to Mexico?
Corn - in tortillas, in masa, in the leaves, the smoke from roasting corn - corn in all shapes and forms.
Your late-night chef snack?
Onigiri - perfect for late‑night snacking and for the morning, too. I love Japanese onigiri between meals as well.
Finish this sentence: “Mexican food, at its best, is…”
Fresh and spicy bites of joy.
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