Laura Jackson's Hot Takes: Condiments
Hot Takes is a new monthly series on the things that make life better. Our creative director, Laura Jackson, lends her lens to a tightly edited selection of what’s worth knowing about. This week: Your condiment wardrobe says more about you than you think.
Forget the marble worktops and fancy taps. One of my favourite things about going into someone's kitchen is discovering their condiment collection. What olive oil do they use? Are they a classic Heinz ketchup household? Is there a delicious chilli crisp, a lovely Dijon mustard or a bottle of vinegar picked up on holiday in Italy?
I genuinely think condiments have become the new kitchen accessories. Little edible souvenirs that tell stories about where we've been, what we love to cook and the flavours we keep coming back to. We've gone from displaying cookbooks to collecting beautiful bottles of olive oil, and I'm here for it.
My own collection is a happy mix of interesting things I've discovered on my travels, supermarket staples and the occasional bottle bought purely because I loved the label. From the inexpensive to the unusual, the weird to the wonderful, and always a bottle of good old HP brown sauce. I love that something as simple as a condiment can bring a little joy to the everyday.
Chilli oil should have something to chew
White Mausu’s peanut rayu is chilli oil with crunch: warm, nutty and properly moreish. It goes on noodles, rice, dumplings and roast veg, and occasionally straight off the spoon when nobody’s looking. Once you’ve had chilli oil with texture, the smooth stuff feels like it’s missing a limb. It’s my go to.
Brunch can come from a jar, sort of
This one may be up for debate, is it a condiment? It is in my eyes. The Pickle House Spiced Tomato Mix does the hard work of a Bloody Mary so you don’t have to. It’s punchy, savoury and spiced just enough to wake you up. It’s the most useful thing in the fridge on a Sunday morning.
Know your Tabasco
Everyone has the red one. The chipotle one is the one I actually reach for: smoky rather than sharp, and warm rather than shouty. A few drops on beans, a cheese toastie or a slow-cooked stew, and suddenly it tastes like you’ve been in the kitchen all day. It’s small enough to live in your handbag (IYKYK), should you be Beyonce or that sort of person - I am that sort of person.
Some classics don’t need improving
Kikkoman is the soy sauce. That little red-capped bottle was designed in 1961 and has barely changed since, because it didn’t need to. It pours exactly as much as you want and not a drop more, and it looks great on the table. It’s a staple.
Sweet things should bite back
JD’s Hot Honey is honey with a kick, and it makes everything taste like a treat. Drizzle it on pizza, halloumi, fried chicken, roast carrots or a slab of good cheese. It’s sweet first and hot second, the perfect balance.
Every cheeseboard needs a wildcard
The Single Variety Co. jalapeño jam is the jar people ask about. It’s fruity, sticky and has just enough heat to make a mature cheddar sit up. It’s brilliant in a toastie, glazed over sausages and with a cold-meat Boxing Day spread. Put it out next to the chutney and watch it disappear very quickly.
Ketchup is allowed to grow up
Ginger Beard’s Moor Amoor chipotle ketchup is everything you love about ketchup, with a bit of smoke and a lot more personality. It goes on burgers, chips and the Saturday bacon sandwich, it’s seriously good.
Never apologise for mayonnaise
Tracklements Rich & Creamy Mayonnaise is thick, glossy and tastes like someone made it properly. That’s because they did. I’m mayo on chips vs ketchup person. It’s also the backbone of a good egg sandwich, a potato salad and a BLT worth sitting down for.
